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Everyone seems to agree that the term racing bike includes many different types of bikes, depending on the type of racing involved. For example, when somebody uses the term racing mountain bike, we know that racing cross country bikes are different from downhill racers. Similarly, when we talk about road racing, we know that this includes road bikes, criterium bikes, and time trial bikes, all of which are quite different from each other, not to mention cyclocross or track bikes. In other words, for every type of racing, a specific type of bike is considered appropriate. A great track bike makes a lousy mountain bike, but they are both "racing bikes". And yet, when we talk about "touring" bikes, we rarely discuss the different types of touring that exist. Somehow, we tend to lump all touring bikes together. Therefore, I would like to take the time to discuss the many different types of touring, and what equipment is appropriate for each type. For some, touring is a "Backroads" tour where you are followed by a Big Red Van with all your gear. For this type of touring, even a racing bike may be appropriate. This is a great way to start touring. Some people consider touring to be a weekend ride in the Wine Country with a large seat bag, a change of clothes, and a credit card. For this kind of touring, a Sport Touring Bike, of which there are quite a few available, is appropriate. The most demanding type of touring is Self-Supported Loaded Touring. This is the type where you are carrying everything you need, which may weigh up to 50 or 60 pounds. Of this type of touring, there are several things that are required of a bike, and when I speak of touring, this is the type I think of; however, this is not to say that the other types are not rewarding and fun. I will try to outline some
of the design features that I believe need to be taken into
account in making a bike that is appropriate for Self
Supported Loaded Touring. I will show why I think
several of the bikes often mentioned as touring bikes fall
short.
Tubing:
Most high end bikes are designed like high
performance aircraft. They are elegant structures
that have been pared down to the minimum weight to
prevent failure. Some of the bikes mentioned as
"touring bikes" are using .9 x .6 x .9mm or even .8
x .5 x .8mm butted tubes, which are perfectly
adequate for the first two types of touring. But
for Loaded Touring, hanging 50 or 60
pounds cantilevered off the front and rear of the
bike calls for thicker wall tubing. Increasing the
wall thickness of the tubing to 1mm at the ends may
add 6 to 10 ounces to the frame - but it will make
a dramatic difference in the handling of the bike
when loaded.
Chainstay
length: When you put medium to large panniers
on a bike with chainstays much shorter than 44cm,
heel clearance is a big problem. Sure, you can
slide the panniers further back on the rack, but
that moves the weight further behind the rear axle,
and affects the handling. Several bikes mentioned
for touring have chainstays as short as 42.5
cm.
Forks:
I feel that many bikes have forks that are not
substantial enough for front panniers. Many people
have told me that they have ridden with front packs
on road forks, and they didn't break. When I say
not substantial enough, I don't mean to say that
they will break - but that the front end stability
is adversely affected.
Component
Parts: Many people are requesting STI or Ergo
Shifters. Although these seem to work quite well
for normal riding, a loaded touring bike shifter
should be able to be used in a friction mode, which
neither STI or Ergo allows. Also, many people have
been excited by the new Campognolo Triple Gruppos;
however, we feel that there are several reasons why
they are inappropriate in a loaded touring bike.
The largest cassette cog available is 28 tooth and
the smallest front chainring that will work with
the front derailleur is a 30 tooth. This gives you
a low gear with 700c wheels of only 30 inches.
While a 30 inch gear might be enough for the first
two types of touring, you would have to be Greg
LeMond to pedal a loaded touring bike with 50
pounds of gear up the Alps with only a 30 inch low
gear.
Front
Racks: Many of the touring bikes offered have a
hoopless Front Rack (or braze-ons for one).
However, a hoopless rack is not one rack, but
actually two separate racks - one on either side of
the fork. They move independently of each other,
and therefore reduce front end stability. To quote
my good friend Gary (Mr. Titanium) Helfrich -
"Hoopless is Hopeless." |
Over
the last few years in discussions about touring bikes, I
have noticed a real need to define what we mean by
touring.
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